Posts by Okke

    Hello Ralf

    The fine air grills are not from Shapeways, but from a neighboring second hand store. That grill had served in some kind of wind light, and I bought it for the mere 25 cents.

    Greetings Okke

    Last week I finally received the last cast parts from Shapeways. Each time it turned out that there were too few support points in the drawing, so that it was rejected.

    Now the loco has finally been completely sprayed with Motip spray paint.





    To keep the locomotive running smoothly, it is now equipped with a new ESU decoder with an external power buffer.

    The next step is to provide the glass and the wipers have yet to be made.

    Greetings Okke

    The locomotive now has its colors from after 1945. I first sprayed the locomotive in the black primer and then in the right color NS green with black piping.

    I just used standard Motip car paint, cheap and very easy to apply.

    To finish it, clear coat was sprayed over it at the end.





    I now have to wait until coupling rods are ready and delivered.

    Kind regards, Okke

    Hi Torsten

    This tram is one from the first series: 1-13, built in 1911 by Carl Weyer & Co Düsseldorf. What you see here is the tram converted in its second version with improved front. No copies of this tram have been preserved.

    The tram in the Openluchtmuseum is a replica of the series 70-75 from 1929. This is a four-axis welded steel tram build by Beijnes Haarlem.

    Kind regards Okke

    Hi Bill,

    What you quote is exactly the mistake many people make with 3d design. What you show is scale 1:76. You see a standard resin print printed in a different print direction on an Anycubic Photon. With that V2, I see production marks on the smokeboxdoor and on the curved items on the loco.

    You think my model shows a lot of lines, that is largely due to the photo.

    The material used for my locomotive is the same, also resin. However, with the Accura Xtreme, the density is much higher and the print layers many times thinner. If I printed this in Gray Resin on an Anycubic Photon, everything would break off. I've done a trial with that before, and it didn't work.

    The Accura Xtreme also has a print range of 482 x 482 x 558 mm, an Anycubic Photon, can handle 270 x 205 x 205 mm at most.

    What you see with the V2 is still the conventional build. I want to show with this model that you can design very differently with the 3D technique, so you do not have to build a separate frame, etc. etc. It is also important that you can apply all details and thicknesses in frames with 3d print, which often does not come across well with etching plates.

    If I would print my model with an Anycubic Photon, I would get at least 6 different parts. Something you absolutely cannot use if you want to create a stable loco.

    What I have learned is that you should not compare small scales in construction with scale 0 or scale 1, that never works.

    The beauty of a 3D print should be that when you construct it properly you can put it together with a few screws. Not that you get a mountain of parts where you still have to construct and rebuild everything together if you want a loco.

    Here I have another example of normal transparent resin print that I built in between last year. This is an tram from Arnhem, but this is a lot smaller in size compared to a locomotive.




    Because this is a static model, it does not need to have the stability that a driving model does need.

    This is a model that is made up of two parts, a cap and a base with interior.

    For example, this could possibly be printed on an Anycubic Photon.

    Kind regards Okke

    Dear Torsten,

    Thanks for the compliment!

    I usually have my prints printed at Shapeways.

    It depends on the article to be printed which material I choose.

    The Accura Xtreme material is currently still in a trial stage and therefore cannot be seen in the web shops, for example. The advantage of this material is that the size of the article to be printed is much larger than average and that you have a high level of detail.


    In principle, you can also print the brass parts in this material, but this seemed to me to be too fragile if you wanted to keep the locomotive transportable to take to a model building association, for example.

    I drew the brass parts on three sprues. This is first printed in wax and then cast in the lost wax method.



    I chose the flexible PA12 for the brake pads and the brake pad hangers on the locomotive. This is also not glued in the frame, but with pins inserted. I did this in case the locomotive derails, it does not destroy its braking work immediately, but bends to one side.


    The suspension in the tender is also made of PA12, but this is drawn many times thicker, making it no longer flexible, but significantly more stable and particularly shock-resistant. It has been drawn compensated to prevent derailments. In theory this should be able to absorb radial and axial forces if the track contains a pendulum.




    To be able to assemble everything together I printed hexagons everywhere, the size a nut so that a standard M3 nut fits in it with an M3 screw.


    Copyright Utrechts Archief

    I always use the original construction drawings for drawing. I also draw everything 1: 1, after which I scale the drawing x 0.02299 so that I get scale 1: 43.5. When drawing in 1: 1 scale, I naturally take into account that certain surfaces get sufficient thickness so that they can be printed later.

    Because I draw on a Mac I use a drawing program that works on this, this is drawn in vector works.

    Kind regards,


    After the NS 2400, which is not finished yet, I wanted to build an NS steam locomotive. I have chosen here to start with an NS 2100. I have always found this locomotive particularly ugly as a child, but slowly got used to it.



    One original has been preserved in a wretched condition in the museum.

    For the model I chose a version that no longer exists, the one with fairing/tub tender. The model is drawn in a post 1945 condition and designed to my wishes.

    The locomotive and tender were printed this time in the Accura Xtreme. The chassis of the tender, braking and roof of the locomotive are printed in PA12. The air pump in Fine Detail Plastic and all the casting is 3d brass printing.

    The wheelsets and engine/gearbox are from Slaters and the pick-ups are from Schnellenkamp.

    Because the locomotive tends to tilt forward, an insulated space has been created in the boiler and firebox that extends to the sand storage area. This space is filled with small lead bullets which they also use in bell weights.50025384673_f79cc3b2c9_k.jpg




    The locomotive is still far from ready, for example the coupling rods have to be drawn and printed.

    Kind regards,


    Hello Thomas,

    Well, I think time will tell.
    But I designed the model to get it's stability when screwed together.
    De resin itself, it's pretty stable. The nylon has the tendency to deform if not supported, but screwed to the resin body, it's very straight.

    Kind regards,


    Hello Stefan,

    To be honest, I have no idea how many hours are in there. I started drawing in March, and finished in I think in July? I don't really keep a log.

    I have nothing to do with the E103 project, I have enough projects on my own and don't want to work with others because then i have to finish stuff.... I mostly work on all kinds of projects at the same time, and when I can't find the energy to finish a project, I put it aside to restart it at a later time.
    I do watch the project of the E103 with great interest, but that's it I'm afraid.

    Now to answer your last question, it will be finished when it will be finished, depends on my mood, time, etc :)

    Kind regards,


    Hello Olli and Matthias,

    The loco is/will be powered by 3x 20/20b Faulhaber engines, I thinks that should be more then enough.

    The nylon is, when you print it, not as solid as when you compare it to a "normal" piece of nylon. So in the beginning when you spraypaint it, it will suck upp the paint into the material.
    I used standard Motip car paint for the first baselayer on the bogies and the main frame.

    Next step will be drawing the wire grill on top and on both sides of the loco. I'm thinking of using the etching skills of Jurgen Moog for that.

    Kind regards,


    Most of my train collection encompasses German trains, mostly because you can buy them everywhere. Nothing wrong with that of course but being Dutch, I would like to be able to have some Dutch trains.

    Of course there is Philotrain, very exclusive, nicely detailed, but not widely available and pretty expensive. Most Philotrain models are made for display, not really for extensive driving either.

    Well, in my opinion there are lots of loco’s to choose from when you look at the Dutch railways. I wanted to try something not too difficult, which has led me to the NS2400.
    It’s a pretty simple loco when it comes to curves and shapes, the design originates in French: Alstom.

    I wanted to try to make it by using 80% 3D printing technique.
    First of all, to start I made a 2D drawing to get to know the loco.

    After that, I started with the basic shapes of the upper body to get the right feeling with the Loco. Everything had to be designed to meet the guidelines for Grey Resin Material. This material has a bouncing box from 250x250x235cm, so the complete loco would never fit. De body of the loco is designed as parts which click together.

    First off all started drawing separate parts:

    For the bogies and the main frame, I used Polyamide (nylon),this is very strong and durable. The bogies are designed as 3 separate parts. The middle frame holds the engines (20/20B), the wheels, and the pick-ups. The bogies are screwed on separately.
    The main frame is drawn as one piece, which will also be printed in Polyamide.

    I made some colour previews to see what it could look like

    Compared to the Grey Resin, the Polyamide is not as smooth. But that shouldn’t be a problem if you weather the model later on.

    It will still take some time to finish the model, but I’m very content with the looks and feel it’s already got.

    Spoor-nul NS2400

    Kind regards,