Posts by Okke

Dear Johannes,

As I wrote above, I do not sell my prints. There are therefore no links to the relevant parts because I do not make them available.

In addition, even if I would like to, it is not possible to make them available because the only option to print is the "print it anyways" option at Shapeways which is not available to customers.

For example, if I would like to make these prints accessible for sale, I have to reduce a lot of details to get them through the standard printing conditions.

I make sure that this hobby does not cause stress. As soon as I start doing things for third parties, I always notice that everyone has a different opinion about what the right form of modeling is.

Groeten Okke

@ Mario,

Apart from the Corona year, we have an informal scale 0 weekend in the Netherlands every year. Previously this was always in Zutphen and now for several years in Oldenzaal.

Spoor Nul weekeinde

@ Stefan,

The PA12 print is made at Shapeways, I actually have no idea how they make the print.

The price differs depending on the amount of details you draw on it, but also which of the 3 options you choose in terms of finish with PA12. If you upload your file (.STL) on the Shapeways website, the price will automatically be added when you click on the material.

I also printed the two bogies at the same time as one file, which may also have an effect on the price.

I do not sell these prints myself, so it is not important to know a price. In addition, the bogies are printed in a way that only the draftsman can print, with the option "print it anyways". This means that details may be lost in the printing process that you as a designer are satisfied with.

Groeten Okke

@ Alexander,

The Accura Xtreme is very fragile when it comes to thin parts. In addition, Accura Xtreme cannot withstand so much torsion, in case of a derailment, everything must not break off immediately. The PA12 retains its shape when it comes to parts of sufficient thickness, the thinner parts, on the other hand, are slightly flexible, so it can withstand a knock.

I made two renderings of the casting tree

@ Karel en Frank,

Dank!, ik ben erg benieuwd hem in het najaar te zien rijden in Oldenzaal.

Groeten Okke

Years ago I was able to buy pantographs from the Philotrain production line at the time of their NS 1100 model. Because their model was far outside my own budget, there was only the option to build it myself.

I've been drawing the model for over a year. It seems a fairly simple model, but the roof is double curved, folded and tapered. I've seen many self-built models that often just weren't. In the end I managed to capture all facets in the basic form.

After the design was realized, there was of course still a lot of structural design to be done. The locomotive is equipped with two motors 20/20B and with current collection on all wheel sets.

The bogies and internal frame are printed in PA12 nylon.

The interior is also made of PA12 nylon and the breakable parts are cast in brass.

The hood is printed in the Accura Xtreme.

And in the end the whole thing was painted in a Berlin Blue color.

Kind regards,

Okke

Hello Valéry,

I fitted the bogies with Faulhaber 20/20B. On the motor I pressed a brass gear wheel module 0.5. On the wheel a nylon gear wheel modul 0.5 to reduce noise.

The pickups are made of nickel silver and are pressed into the bogie frame. The wheel sets themselves turn in a brass bush.

I do not offer the parts for the locomotive for sale, I do not want to become a dealer or seller. I protect myself and my hobby in this way.

Kind regards,

Okke

Dear Michael,

The castings are drawn by myself, just like the locomotive.

You have the option at Shapeways to cast in brass. A print is made in wax, and then the lost wax method is used to create the brass casting.

Kind regards,

Okke

Dank heren!

Even before I started with the NS 2100, I was already drawing for the NS 5500. At first I was not able to properly compensate for the 3 fixed wheelsets. This has pushed the project back a bit.

After some tests I used the Hornblocks from Slaters. By grinding off all ribs they could be slid into the frame. The center wheel set, which has the driveunit, has the least play, the coupled wheel the most play.

The locomotive is printed in the Accura Xtreme and the black plastic parts are PA12, the other parts are made of brass.

At this point the locomotive was ready to be painted. The paint scheme is the version of the 50s.

It seemed to be heading in the right direction. However, I accidentally dropped the locomotive from my hands to the ground. This resulted in the front of the locomotive being so damaged, that I didn't had the courage to continue with this anymore.

It took me a month to process this, then I started again. I drew a part that would fit in the broken part. In parallel I ordered a new locomotive because there was a risk that this repair work would not work.

Now I am finishing the locomotives together.

The question now is whether I provide both locomotives with an engine or just one of the two. Initially it was never my intention to build two locomotives.

Kind regards,

Okke

Hello Ralf

The fine air grills are not from Shapeways, but from a neighboring second hand store. That grill had served in some kind of wind light, and I bought it for the mere 25 cents.

Greetings Okke

Last week I finally received the last cast parts from Shapeways. Each time it turned out that there were too few support points in the drawing, so that it was rejected.

Now the loco has finally been completely sprayed with Motip spray paint.

To keep the locomotive running smoothly, it is now equipped with a new ESU decoder with an external power buffer.

The next step is to provide the glass and the wipers have yet to be made.

Greetings Okke

The locomotive now has its colors from after 1945. I first sprayed the locomotive in the black primer and then in the right color NS green with black piping.

I just used standard Motip car paint, cheap and very easy to apply.

To finish it, clear coat was sprayed over it at the end.

I now have to wait until coupling rods are ready and delivered.

Kind regards, Okke

Hi Torsten

This tram is one from the first series: 1-13, built in 1911 by Carl Weyer & Co Düsseldorf. What you see here is the tram converted in its second version with improved front. No copies of this tram have been preserved.

The tram in the Openluchtmuseum is a replica of the series 70-75 from 1929. This is a four-axis welded steel tram build by Beijnes Haarlem.

Kind regards Okke

Hi Bill,

What you quote is exactly the mistake many people make with 3d design. What you show is scale 1:76. You see a standard resin print printed in a different print direction on an Anycubic Photon. With that V2, I see production marks on the smokeboxdoor and on the curved items on the loco.

You think my model shows a lot of lines, that is largely due to the photo.

The material used for my locomotive is the same, also resin. However, with the Accura Xtreme, the density is much higher and the print layers many times thinner. If I printed this in Gray Resin on an Anycubic Photon, everything would break off. I've done a trial with that before, and it didn't work.

The Accura Xtreme also has a print range of 482 x 482 x 558 mm, an Anycubic Photon, can handle 270 x 205 x 205 mm at most.

What you see with the V2 is still the conventional build. I want to show with this model that you can design very differently with the 3D technique, so you do not have to build a separate frame, etc. etc. It is also important that you can apply all details and thicknesses in frames with 3d print, which often does not come across well with etching plates.

If I would print my model with an Anycubic Photon, I would get at least 6 different parts. Something you absolutely cannot use if you want to create a stable loco.

What I have learned is that you should not compare small scales in construction with scale 0 or scale 1, that never works.

The beauty of a 3D print should be that when you construct it properly you can put it together with a few screws. Not that you get a mountain of parts where you still have to construct and rebuild everything together if you want a loco.

Here I have another example of normal transparent resin print that I built in between last year. This is an tram from Arnhem, but this is a lot smaller in size compared to a locomotive.

Because this is a static model, it does not need to have the stability that a driving model does need.

This is a model that is made up of two parts, a cap and a base with interior.

For example, this could possibly be printed on an Anycubic Photon.

http://spoor-nul.blogspot.com/p/geta-1-13.html

Kind regards Okke

Dear Torsten,

Thanks for the compliment!

I usually have my prints printed at Shapeways.

https://www.shapeways.com/

It depends on the article to be printed which material I choose.

The Accura Xtreme material is currently still in a trial stage and therefore cannot be seen in the web shops, for example. The advantage of this material is that the size of the article to be printed is much larger than average and that you have a high level of detail.

In principle, you can also print the brass parts in this material, but this seemed to me to be too fragile if you wanted to keep the locomotive transportable to take to a model building association, for example.

I drew the brass parts on three sprues. This is first printed in wax and then cast in the lost wax method.

I chose the flexible PA12 for the brake pads and the brake pad hangers on the locomotive. This is also not glued in the frame, but with pins inserted. I did this in case the locomotive derails, it does not destroy its braking work immediately, but bends to one side.

The suspension in the tender is also made of PA12, but this is drawn many times thicker, making it no longer flexible, but significantly more stable and particularly shock-resistant. It has been drawn compensated to prevent derailments. In theory this should be able to absorb radial and axial forces if the track contains a pendulum.

To be able to assemble everything together I printed hexagons everywhere, the size a nut so that a standard M3 nut fits in it with an M3 screw.

Copyright Utrechts Archief

I always use the original construction drawings for drawing. I also draw everything 1: 1, after which I scale the drawing x 0.02299 so that I get scale 1: 43.5. When drawing in 1: 1 scale, I naturally take into account that certain surfaces get sufficient thickness so that they can be printed later.

Because I draw on a Mac I use a drawing program that works on this, this is drawn in vector works.

Kind regards,

Okke

After the NS 2400, which is not finished yet, I wanted to build an NS steam locomotive. I have chosen here to start with an NS 2100. I have always found this locomotive particularly ugly as a child, but slowly got used to it.

One original has been preserved in a wretched condition in the museum.

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/NS-Baureihe_2100

https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/NS_2100_(stoomlocomotief)

For the model I chose a version that no longer exists, the one with fairing/tub tender. The model is drawn in a post 1945 condition and designed to my wishes.

The locomotive and tender were printed this time in the Accura Xtreme. The chassis of the tender, braking and roof of the locomotive are printed in PA12. The air pump in Fine Detail Plastic and all the casting is 3d brass printing.

The wheelsets and engine/gearbox are from Slaters and the pick-ups are from Schnellenkamp.

Because the locomotive tends to tilt forward, an insulated space has been created in the boiler and firebox that extends to the sand storage area. This space is filled with small lead bullets which they also use in bell weights.

The locomotive is still far from ready, for example the coupling rods have to be drawn and printed.

Kind regards,

Okke

http://spoor-nul.blogspot.com/

Find the differences:

The two on the left are Philotrain models.

Kind regards,

Okke

Today the loco did make it's first test drive.
NS 2413 test drive

For those of you who want to see it in real life, next week during the "Spoor nul dagen" in Zutphen, it will be on the tracks.

Kind regards,

Okke

Hello Thomas,

Well, I think time will tell.
But I designed the model to get it's stability when screwed together.
De resin itself, it's pretty stable. The nylon has the tendency to deform if not supported, but screwed to the resin body, it's very straight.

Kind regards,

Okke

Hello Stefan,

To be honest, I have no idea how many hours are in there. I started drawing in March, and finished in I think in July? I don't really keep a log.

I have nothing to do with the E103 project, I have enough projects on my own and don't want to work with others because then i have to finish stuff.... I mostly work on all kinds of projects at the same time, and when I can't find the energy to finish a project, I put it aside to restart it at a later time.
I do watch the project of the E103 with great interest, but that's it I'm afraid.

Now to answer your last question, it will be finished when it will be finished, depends on my mood, time, etc

Kind regards,

Okke

Hello Olli and Matthias,

The loco is/will be powered by 3x 20/20b Faulhaber engines, I thinks that should be more then enough.

The nylon is, when you print it, not as solid as when you compare it to a "normal" piece of nylon. So in the beginning when you spraypaint it, it will suck upp the paint into the material.
I used standard Motip car paint for the first baselayer on the bogies and the main frame.

Next step will be drawing the wire grill on top and on both sides of the loco. I'm thinking of using the etching skills of Jurgen Moog for that.

Kind regards,

Okke