NS 2100 (Steamlocomotive) - 3D printed model

  • After the NS 2400, which is not finished yet, I wanted to build an NS steam locomotive. I have chosen here to start with an NS 2100. I have always found this locomotive particularly ugly as a child, but slowly got used to it.



    One original has been preserved in a wretched condition in the museum.



    For the model I chose a version that no longer exists, the one with fairing/tub tender. The model is drawn in a post 1945 condition and designed to my wishes.

    The locomotive and tender were printed this time in the Accura Xtreme. The chassis of the tender, braking and roof of the locomotive are printed in PA12. The air pump in Fine Detail Plastic and all the casting is 3d brass printing.

    The wheelsets and engine/gearbox are from Slaters and the pick-ups are from Schnellenkamp.

    Because the locomotive tends to tilt forward, an insulated space has been created in the boiler and firebox that extends to the sand storage area. This space is filled with small lead bullets which they also use in bell weights.50025384673_f79cc3b2c9_k.jpg




    The locomotive is still far from ready, for example the coupling rods have to be drawn and printed.

    Kind regards,



  • Beste Okke,

    since a couple of years I like stoomlocomotives from Netherland. In the time before I decide to change from H0 to 0 I´ve a couple of stoomlocomotiven from Netherland from Philotrain. Therefore I´m interested in the history of Netherlands stoomlocomotives and I know a little bit about the history of the 2100 Shure I visited Utrecht to see the original. Therefore I must say - it`s a great scale 0 Modell which you have made.

    Met vriendelijke groeten


  • Hallo Okke,

    Bedankt voor het presenteren van uw mooie model hier aan ons. Echt een bijzondere locomotief, de NS2100! Interne motor! Waarom simpel, als het ingewikkeld kan zijn, lijken de ontwerpers te hebben gedacht ...

    Kun je ons nog iets anders vertellen over 3D-printen? Ik vermoed dat je de componenten niet zelf hebt afgedrukt. Op basis van mijn ervaring met dit bedrijf in Leipzig en mijn eigen afdrukresultaten, zou ik zeggen dat als je zelf een beetje probeert wat werkt en wat niet, je zeker betere resultaten zult krijgen dan de professionals, althans met de 3D-printers die ons geven zijn nu beschikbaar. En op de lange termijn is het ook veel goedkoper.

    En nog een vraag: hoe construeer je de modellen, d.w.z. welk CAD-programma gebruik je?

    Ik zou heel graag verdere rapporten van u ontvangen.

    Groeten Torsten Frieboese

    (Vertaald met google vertaler)

    Und nochmal in Deutsch...

    Hallo Okke,

    vielen Dank, daß Du uns Dein schönes Modell hier vorstellst. Wirklich eine urige Lok, die NS2100! Innentriebwerk! Warum einfach, wenn es auch kompliziert geht, scheinen sich die Konstrukteure gedacht zu haben...

    Kannst Du uns noch etwas über den 3D-Druck berichten? Ich vermute, Du hast die Bauteile nicht selbst gedruckt. Nach meiner Erfahrungen mit dieser Firma in Leipzig und meinen eigenen Druckergebnissen würde ich behaupten: Wenn man selbst ein bischen ausprobiert, was geht und was nicht, erzielt man auf alle Fälle selbst bessere Ergebnisse als die Profis, jedenfalls mit den 3D-Druckern, die uns jetzt zur Verfügung stehen. Und auf Dauer ist das auch viel billiger.

    Und noch eine Frage: Womit konstruierst Du die Modelle, also welches CAD-Programm verwendest Du

    Ich würde mich über weitere Berrichte von Dir sehr freuen.

    Gruß Torsten Frieboese

  • Dear Torsten,

    Thanks for the compliment!

    I usually have my prints printed at Shapeways.


    It depends on the article to be printed which material I choose.

    The Accura Xtreme material is currently still in a trial stage and therefore cannot be seen in the web shops, for example. The advantage of this material is that the size of the article to be printed is much larger than average and that you have a high level of detail.


    In principle, you can also print the brass parts in this material, but this seemed to me to be too fragile if you wanted to keep the locomotive transportable to take to a model building association, for example.

    I drew the brass parts on three sprues. This is first printed in wax and then cast in the lost wax method.



    I chose the flexible PA12 for the brake pads and the brake pad hangers on the locomotive. This is also not glued in the frame, but with pins inserted. I did this in case the locomotive derails, it does not destroy its braking work immediately, but bends to one side.


    The suspension in the tender is also made of PA12, but this is drawn many times thicker, making it no longer flexible, but significantly more stable and particularly shock-resistant. It has been drawn compensated to prevent derailments. In theory this should be able to absorb radial and axial forces if the track contains a pendulum.




    To be able to assemble everything together I printed hexagons everywhere, the size a nut so that a standard M3 nut fits in it with an M3 screw.


    Copyright Utrechts Archief

    I always use the original construction drawings for drawing. I also draw everything 1: 1, after which I scale the drawing x 0.02299 so that I get scale 1: 43.5. When drawing in 1: 1 scale, I naturally take into account that certain surfaces get sufficient thickness so that they can be printed later.

    Because I draw on a Mac I use a drawing program that works on this, this is drawn in vector works.

    Kind regards,


  • Hallo Okke,

    bedankt voor de verdere uitleg en foto's. Vind het erg leuk! Voor mij is het bekend terrein, ik doe zoiets ook, maar voor degenen die het nog niet weten, is het een heel mooi voorbeeld van wat je tegenwoordig met moderne tools kunt doen.

    Een grote bioscoop! Zijn er meer?

    Misschien kunt u uw uitleg hier ook in het Duits plaatsen?


    Torsten Frieboese

    Hallo Okke,

    danke für die weiteren Erklärungen und Bilder. Gefällt mir sehr! Für mich ist das ja vertrautes Gelände, ich mach sowas ja auch, aber für die Mitforisten, die das noch nicht so kennen, ist das ein sehr schönes Beispiel, was man mit zeitgemässen Werkzeugen heutzutage so machen kann.

    Ganz großes Kino! Gibt es noch mehr davon?

    Vielleicht könntest Du Deine Erklärungen auch in Deutsch hier einstellen?


    Torsten Frieboese

  • Vielleicht könntest Du Deine Erklärungen auch in Deutsch hier einstellen?

    Hallo Torsten

    Wenn er das könnte dann würde er seinen Beitrag ja nicht im englisch sprachigen Forumsteil einstellen... 8)
    Aber vielleicht gibts ja Leser die Zeit und Lust hätten seine Beiträge zu übersetzen.

    Du selber gibst Dir ja die Mühe sogar in holländisch zu antworten = super :)

    Bin gespannt wie es weitergeht mit der Lok, ist jedenfalls super gemacht und wir können
    auch wieder dazulernen.


    Peter Lehmann

  • Okke, a bit of a shock to meet the Dutch language. I was able to translate the German with the help of my dictionary. A very nice model but there are production marks, especially on the curved surfaces - boiler and tender.

    Might I suggest you look at a thread on RMWeb. It's in Modelling Zone - Modelling Musings … - Wright writes... Go back a few pages and Tony Wright is test building a 3D model in 1:76 scale of a V2 class. The 3D body was produced by Mike Trice. The model does not appear to have any production marks but is very fragile. Perhaps you could make a "mixed media" 3D model, with your existing material for the frames, buffer beams, foot plate etc., and Mike's material for the boiler, cab and tender body.

    Best wishes, Bill

  • Hi Bill,

    What you quote is exactly the mistake many people make with 3d design. What you show is scale 1:76. You see a standard resin print printed in a different print direction on an Anycubic Photon. With that V2, I see production marks on the smokeboxdoor and on the curved items on the loco.

    You think my model shows a lot of lines, that is largely due to the photo.

    The material used for my locomotive is the same, also resin. However, with the Accura Xtreme, the density is much higher and the print layers many times thinner. If I printed this in Gray Resin on an Anycubic Photon, everything would break off. I've done a trial with that before, and it didn't work.

    The Accura Xtreme also has a print range of 482 x 482 x 558 mm, an Anycubic Photon, can handle 270 x 205 x 205 mm at most.

    What you see with the V2 is still the conventional build. I want to show with this model that you can design very differently with the 3D technique, so you do not have to build a separate frame, etc. etc. It is also important that you can apply all details and thicknesses in frames with 3d print, which often does not come across well with etching plates.

    If I would print my model with an Anycubic Photon, I would get at least 6 different parts. Something you absolutely cannot use if you want to create a stable loco.

    What I have learned is that you should not compare small scales in construction with scale 0 or scale 1, that never works.

    The beauty of a 3D print should be that when you construct it properly you can put it together with a few screws. Not that you get a mountain of parts where you still have to construct and rebuild everything together if you want a loco.

    Here I have another example of normal transparent resin print that I built in between last year. This is an tram from Arnhem, but this is a lot smaller in size compared to a locomotive.




    Because this is a static model, it does not need to have the stability that a driving model does need.

    This is a model that is made up of two parts, a cap and a base with interior.

    For example, this could possibly be printed on an Anycubic Photon.


    Kind regards Okke

  • Is this the tram that runs in the Openluchtmuseum near Arnhem?

    The technical explanations are very helpful, even though I will probably never go into 3D design for my needs. You present us very interesting things here, thank you very much for that and carry on like this!

    Best greeting from Potsdam, the other Torsten

  • Hi Torsten

    This tram is one from the first series: 1-13, built in 1911 by Carl Weyer & Co Düsseldorf. What you see here is the tram converted in its second version with improved front. No copies of this tram have been preserved.

    The tram in the Openluchtmuseum is a replica of the series 70-75 from 1929. This is a four-axis welded steel tram build by Beijnes Haarlem.

    Kind regards Okke

  • The locomotive now has its colors from after 1945. I first sprayed the locomotive in the black primer and then in the right color NS green with black piping.

    I just used standard Motip car paint, cheap and very easy to apply.

    To finish it, clear coat was sprayed over it at the end.





    I now have to wait until coupling rods are ready and delivered.

    Kind regards, Okke


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