SJ Locomotor Z49, 3D-printed model, a long story

  • Hello everyone.

    I don't know if you are interested in 3D-printing in this forum, but I'll start this and see where it ends.
    This project started in november 2017 when me and my brother began to talk about 1/45 instead of 1/87.
    I wanted to see if it was possible to make models myself, using my 3D-printers.
    After testing with some wagons I thought it was. Next step is a locomotive.
    It has to be a small locomotive with not to many details, and because I'm from Sweden, it has to be Swedish.
    When I grew up, a long time ago, we lived near a small industrial railway, where a Z49 maintained the service,
    so a Z49 it will be.

    The criteria for this project is:
    - I must be able to make the CAD-files myself
    - I must be able to print most parts myself
    - It must work, functionality before detailing

    Unfortunally my CAD-skills are at beginners stadium but the good thing is that I can only get better.
    Using OpenSCAD and a Prusa I3-clone I got going. With some help from a swedish forum
    I got some simple blueprints to start with. I think it is much easier to make testprints
    as I go along, then I can see what mistakes I made. And that is a lot!

    This is the first testprint of the chassie besides a photo of the real thing:

    Of course this is not all I made in a year but it is all for now.
    I'll post some more text and pictures in a day or two.

  • I was able to make the blueprint in full scale 1/45 in my Brother A3-printer and that made it easier to work out dimensions.
    I have 3 different blueprints and many photos and they are not the same, and there are probably not two Z49 that are exactly the same.
    So I have to make some qualified guessing here and there and make something that looks good enough.

    Moving on with the chassie, I made some bumperparts and bumperplate (and more mountingholes):

  • It must be possible to assemble and the body needs to be screwed to the chassie.
    The body can be screwed together or glued, or both.
    A lot of holes and reinforcements and everything needs to be in the right place.
    Not the easiest thing in a simple CAD-program as OpenSCAD.

    Testing with front and rear body, and cabin parts.

    It is quite accurate according to this blueprint, but I think the front and rear curve is a bit flat.
    It is more rounded in another blueprint so I go with that instead. It looks better :)

  • Time to get it on wheels. Made some axle-holders to fit Lenz wheel set, 49025:

    Beginning to look like a locomotor :)

    Checking that the bumperheight is correct using one of my 3D-printed stakewagons:

  • New set of prints, christmas red :whistling:

    Oops, where did that come from :D
    Well, the cookie-cutters are 3D-printed:

    Got some handrails on, not ideal to print, will use brass or something instead:

    Yet another prototype on wheels, slowly getting better:

  • This model is supposed to run and therefore we need a motor and some type of transmission.
    Bought a quite large dual shaft motor from China and worm gear set.
    Unfortunally it is hard to find gears with inner diameter that fits motor shaft and wheel axle.
    Will have to find a better solution to this ?(

    I use Lenz wheel set and used a drill to increase innerdiameter of the gear.

    I made a simple tool to disassemble/assemble wheel set, works fine :)

    Wheel set mounted in updated chassie:

    And worm gears so that I can get the right mounting height of the motor:

  • And here is chassie with motor. Large and heavy motor, 4-wheel drive :D , should be able to tow a couple of wagons.

    Coupling between motor shaft and worm gear works but is not good, have to come up with something better.

    Complete with wheels:

  • Adding a couple of brass parts to the wheels for getting power to the decoder:

    And putting it all together:

    First test drive:
    Test drive Youtube link

    Ok, so now Prototype Nr 1 is finished. This is how far I got until march 2018
    It is rolling and I think that is not to bad.
    There is a lot of work remaining and a lot of parts I haven't made yet.
    Not to mention couplings and lights.

    In the summer there wasn't much done with this project, but it started again in august.
    In my next post where I'll begin with Prototype Nr 2 there is going to be a quality upgrade.

  • I have invested in a new 3D-printer, Anycubic Photon, the cheapest resin-printer I could find.
    It is smaller print area but it's ok for 1/45. Can use the same CAD-files but otherwise it is totally different,
    and it took some time to understand how things work. And there is a lot more to improve.

    After a number testprints with random stuff I loaded the Z49-files for Prototype Nr 2
    and here is the result after some slight sanding and gluing of small parts:

    All photos are taken with mobile camera and closeups are not specially good,
    but the print results are good. Should need more sanding, though.

  • Thank you, Thomas :)

    I don't know what color it should be on Z49, but some kind of red-brown-ish would probably do the trick.
    Had some Motip primer in my garage, it says "Red" on the cap, but I think it is red-brown-ish :D

    It's some kind of semimatt and I think it looks OK. It's cheap, anyway :)

  • There's not too many functions on the decoder, but enough for light front & rear and cabin interior light.
    Used what I had at home, 3mm LED's and wiring. Took some time to find out what resistors to use
    so that the LED's wouldn't be too bright.
    White LED's front & rear:

    Red at cabin top front & rear:

    And yellow for cabin interior light:

    Well, it's just a prototype :D

    And now I would like to wish you all

  • And because it's a prototype I need some connectors so I can take it apart for changing things without soldering.
    This decoder is a Tams LD-W-32.2. It's quite cheap so I bought a couple for testing. It is possible to connect a small capacitor,
    would be better with a large supercap, but . . . .

    They are mounted over the coupler holder

    And there is also a failsafe quick connector to the body

    Luckely, no one is supposed to see this :D

    And that's all for this year.

    I wish you all a fantastic

  • And this is what it looks like assembled (roof is not fastened):

    Made some railings for testing:

    Testing light functions:

    There isn't any telex-coupler so I made a manual uncuopler:

    Short video of testdrive on a testtrack, with test of arduino-controlled signal (lot of testing here):
    Testdrive prototype 2

    I think the body is quite ok, made some modifications in the drawings, and I have began to print the final bodyparts.
    The drivetrain, however, needs some serious remake.
    And that is how far I've got in little over a year. From now on the updates on this project will not come this often, it's just a hobby.

  • Thank you, Rene :)
    I haven't thought about what to do when or if I get it running properly.
    Maybe some kit, I don't know. But it would be great fun to see a lot of little Z49 running around 8o

    I have moved forward with my CAD-skills and are now using Fusion 360.
    Everything is now made in a much more powerful tool.
    Here is a picture from Fusion 360, chassie is not complete yet:

  • As I mentioned earlier I have now began to print, what is supposed to be, my first real model of Z49 version 1.0.
    The chassie is not ok yet so that will need some more brainstorming, but I think the body looks good enough.
    Interior parts are also missing but I am working on that, and that can wait a couple of months.
    First print I tried to fit front, rear and cabin in one print:

    but front and rear part didn't really stick to the build plate so I made a new attempt with just these two:

    Many people say that you get better result by position the parts in an angle, maybe 30-45 degrees.
    I have tried this but it did not work at all with these parts. Maybe because I'm an amateur, I don't know.
    It's quite messy with a resin printer but I think it is worth the effort.
    After printing the parts needs to be cleaned with isopropanol, and then I rinse it in water.
    They are a bit soft right out of the printer and they must be hardened in UV-light.
    I bought a cheap LED UV Nail lamp on Ebay for this purpuse:

    Then there is time for drilling all holes and sanding/finishing, and hope that nothing brakes apart :S

  • After drilling all holes to the right diameter I applied a thin coat of paint:

    Then it's easier to see where I need to do more sanding:

    Also printed a couple of small parts that will be on the body, headlight, fuel cap and cooler cap:

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